The doors opened and the heat and humidity rushed up to greet us. The inside of the hotel had been comfortable, perhaps 70 degrees, but when we returned later in the evening I shivered after the outside warmth. There was a notice on the door that said "NO DURIANS", but I did not understand the significance of those two words until later.

As we strolled along the main road towards the river, it seemed that the whole of Singapore walked with us. The modern high-rise hotels all had shopping centres occupying the lower floors, trapping unwary guests and locals alike with their treasures. Some of the hotels were truly breathtaking, one resembling a ship's upturned hull. Their express lifts announced your floor number as it was approached, in a mechanical yet curiously polite voice. All this modernity contrasted wildly with the decrepit riverside area, which had once been busy with shops but now awaited redevelopment. We finally arrived at our destination, The Satay Club.

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